Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio is celebrating 60 years as an Italian icon. It’s a wine loved by American celebrities and is sold in 95 countries around the world. But among wine circles, Pinot Grigio is a much-snubbed style of wine, dismissed as being characterless and bland. Sophia Longhi explores why Santa Margherita is different from the rest and why you perhaps should give it a try.