It was with absolute and unadulterated pleasure that I attended a press tasting of Penfolds Australia Collection 2021 at 67 Pall Mall recently. Whatever else I had planned that day was swept aside and swiftly forgotten about. Was I really going to be one of the first people in this country to taste these newborns, which included the 70th edition of Australia’s most celebrated treasure, Grange, and have an audience with the legendary Peter Gago?